Meeting My New City

February 5th, 2010

As I did in New York, I’ve made finding farmers’ markets a way to learn the transit systems and lay of the city.  On Wednesday, this gave me the chance to spend some time outside in the gorgeous (springtime!?!) sunshine, learning some of the streets of SF and (eventually) finding a fantastic farmers’ market (the Heart of the City Market, open Wed & Sun 7-5).  The produce there blew my New York accustomed seasonal mindset.  Green beans?  Sugar snap peas?  Strawberries!?!  (The tree blooming on my corner could have hinted that it’s spring.)

I set out in search of the market by hopping on the Muni train just a block from my front door and hopping off 20 minutes later.  Then, I walked around for a good half hour, maybe more, trying to find the market.  My extended quest occurred because the HOC market website shows a google map with a search for “UN Plaza, Civic Center” which provides a location about 6 blocks away from both the UN Plaza and the market.  Through the magic of the web, I was able to find the actual location (and to be fair the market’s website does say that it is by the BART and Muni Civic Center stops, which it is)!

Heading back to public transit and a shot at the alternate location, I found the market, full of folks form all walks of life.  A thriving market in a city needs to appeal to people from many backgrounds and different income levels.  This one does.  Old chinese ladies, young enviro-types, middle-aged black professional women and many others perused the stands along with me.  We browsed piles and piles of veggies, some organic, some not, some neatly stacked, others haphazardly piled for the throngs of customers crowding around.

At first, I mostly saw broccoli rabe, cabbage, citrus and sweet potatoes, all things that make sense for late winter in a moderate climate.  Then came the more surprising bits, fresh herbs, green beans, snap peas, tomatoes and strawberries!  Apparently, there is a reason CA is described as a garden paradise – it’s amazing what will grow here in February.  Of course, this all takes a lot of work by the farmers who grow this produce, and some of it is very intensely farmed.  Hoop and green houses and high tunnels, and lots labour, are required to grow strawberries and snap peas and bell peppers at this time of year.  Several stands were certified organic or described themselves as pesticide free, which requires even more thought and work.  I’m glad the farmers do it – their produce is what makes my kitchen a joy to be in.

Now, on to that kitchen!

Indian taste adventures

March 30th, 2009

chana masala

I loving cooking Indian food during the winter.  The potatoes and onions and cabbages that winter over so well need some exciting spices else they get a bit repetative by the end of March.  On this menu: chana masala (a variation of a recipe I frequently make), cabbage with turmeric and ginger, potato cakes and coconut rice. It was lots of fun. Which proves that I’m getting more comfortable with Indian techniques. Yay!

Aside from comfort with large quantities of spices, the techniques involved in Indian cooking have always been the hardest for me to master – heating the spices in oil for just the right amount of time, not burning myself with splattering oil, cooking the basmati rice down to the right amount of water before covering it. All of these simply take practice. Don’t be afraid, if nothing else, the smell of spices in your kitchen will make it worth while.

The chana is a variation on one I’ve been making for a while, though actually more simple!

Chana Masala – 4 – 6 servings

Ingredients:

  • 1 small-med onion
  • 3 cloves garlic
  • 1 ½ inches fresh ginger
  • 1-2 serrano/thai chiles
  • 1 tbs. oil
  • 1 tsp. salt
  • 1 tsp. coriander, ground
  • ½ tsp. sugar
  • 2 tsp. amchur (scant tsp.) (or 2 Tbs lime juice)
  • 1 tsp. garam masaala
  • 3 tbs. cilantro (divided)
  • 1 med potato (yukon gold)
  • 1 can garbanzo beans/chick peas (or 1/12 c. cooked beans)
  • 16 oz. can diced tomato (or 2 med-small)
  • 1 c. water
  • 2 tsp. tamarind concentrate
  • 1 ½ tsp. cumin, roasted and ground

Instructions:

  1. Dice onion, garlic, ginger and chiles (in food processor until small), reserve.  Chop potatoes (and tomatoes if not using canned) into 1/2 inch cubes, reserve.  Mix salt (if using salted tomatoes, use only 1/2 tsp. salt), garam masala, coriander and amchar, reserve.  Toast cumin, grind and set aside.  Juice lime if not using amchar.
  2. Heat oil over med-high heat in a high sided sauce pan.  Add onion mixture and stirfry until golden brown.  Add salt/spices, fry for 30 seconds, then add chick peas, potatoes, tomatoes, 1 tbs. cilantro and tamarind desolved in water.
  3. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to med-low, and let boil for 10-12 min, covered, stirring occasionally.
  4. When potatoes are tender to a fork, remove lid and simmer for 8-10 minutes until sauce thickens slightly.
  5. Add ground cumin and 2 tbs. lime juice if using instead of amchar.

Note: Amchur is ground dried green mango, usually sold at specialty Indian stores.

The cabbage dish came almost directly from Léon Brocard at Astray Recipes (ignore the ads at the top).

Cabbage with Turmeric and Ginger – 4 servings

Ingredients:

  • 1 Tbs. Butter
  • 1 Tbs. Vegetable oil
  • 1 med Onion; sliced
  • 1 inch fresh root ginger
  • ½ small head green cabbage (~4 c. chopped)
  • ¾ tsp. Ground turmeric
  • ½-¾ tsp. Salt
  • ½ tsp Paprika
  • 1 ½ Tbs. Lemon juice
  • 1 tsp Garam masala

Instructions:

  1. Chop cabbage and reserve; slice onion thinly, reserve; julien ginger, reserve.  Mix turmeric, paprika and salt and reserve w/ cabbage.
  2. Heat a large wok or large frying pan over high heat until hot, add the butter, oil and then onion and stir fry for 1 minute, stirring all the time. Add the ginger and continue cooking for a further 1 minute.
  3. Add the cabbage with the turmeric, salt and paprika and stir fry for 3 minutes, stirring all the time.
  4. Remove from heat, stir in the lemon juice and the garam masala and serve immediately with yogurt if wished.

Many of the ingredients are not regional or seasonal, but in the winter, I tend to stray for the sake of flavor and to end the monotony.

Winter Salad

March 30th, 2009

Spring has nearly sprung, so I’m getting in my last few winter posts that have been waiting to be shared.  This one’s from December.

When fall rolls around bringing with it the fresh crop of apples, one of my favorite salad dinners is apple and cheddar on greens with maple vinaigrette.  As fall chills to winter, this remains a favorite, but with a new addition – pomegranite seeds!  There is something particularly wintery about the lovely red globes showing up in grocery stores and on the fruit carts around New York.  I think it may stem back to my step mother who used to fill a beautiful blue glass bowl with the winter fruit during the holidays.  She never ate them, but I always loved them as a child, more for the challenge and surprise of pulling out the layers and layers of seeds than for the sweet-sour burst that I now love.

So, my fall salad slightly transformed becomes a lovely winter dinner.  Simple, quick to prepare, beautiful to look upon, and oh so tasty in the mouth.

Full disclosure – I am drifting from my usual local focus with the pomegranites, but I can’t resist their allure.  As the season winds down and we are reduced to squash, sweet potatoes and greenhouse greens, it is easier to allow items grown in warmer climes into my kitchen.  Still, many of the ingredients to this salad are locally available for me, the greenhouse arugala, the cheddar cheese, the apples, the maple in my vinaigrette.  Local purists will have to forgive me for olive oil, mustard and pomegranite.

A winter’s salad

Ingredients – salad

  • plate-full of arugala (or lettuce or your favorite greens, I like spicy greens with the apple and cheese)
  • 1 apple
  • 1 serving cheddar cheese cut into small cubes
  • 1 handful pomegranite seeds (this is less than 1/4 of a full fruit, thankfully they store well)

Ingredients – dressing

  • dollop of your favorite mustard, try different ones to see which character you like best
  • small spill of maple syrup
  • larger spill of rice or cider vinaigar
  • 2 times as much oil as vinaigar
  • a pinch of salt (depending on taste and the amount of salt in your mustard)
  • several good grinds of pepper

The whole thing comes together quickly and makes for an excellent dinner, with a slice of crusty bread, so long as you aren’t chilled to the bone.  If so, make soup instead.

A Winter’s Soup, Southeast-Asian

January 23rd, 2009

squash soup

After the celebrations of the holidays, and the holiday foods that go with them, January feels like somewhat of a let down. Winter has set in for good and the farmers’ markets, (if you’re lucky enough to have one that operates year round), will for the next few months have little produce-wise other than apples, potatoes, onions, root vegetables and greenhouse greens – at least that’s the case in the northeast.

Still, January does have the the last flings of fall with squash and sweet potatoes. Snatch them up while they’re still here! Of course, you may be tired of these epitomes of fall, so here’s a different take on squash soup. No nutmeg. Not even the slightest hint of Thanksgiving. Instead ginger and lemongrass, coconut milk and lime. The bright refreshing flavors of southeast-asia that are warming and bright, to counteract the grey outside.

Ginger Lemongrass Squash Soup – 4-6 servings

Ingredients

  • 1 stem lemongrass
  • 2 inches ginger
  • 4 ½ cups cubed squash (kaboka or other sweet squash, buttercup, kuri etc.)
  • ½ cup sliced carrots
  • 1 can coconut milk
  • broth to 3 total cups liquid
  • 1 splash fish sauce
  • 2 Tbs cilantro (Optional)
  • lime wedges (Optional)

Instructions

  1. Trim squash and carrots and cube/slice.  Heat 3/4″ inch water in a medium sauce pan with 1″ ginger thinly sliced and half the stem of lemon grass.  Add steamer basket and steam squash and carrots over low to medium heat until very soft, 30-40 minutes.
  2. Meanwhile, heat coconut milk with enough broth to make three cups of liquid.  Add remaining ginger and lemongrass, thinly sliced.  Add a splash of fish sauce.  Let steep over lowest heat while squash steams.
  3. When done, remove squash and reserve steaming liquid.  Return squash to sauce pan.  Pour coconut milk mixture through a seive over the squash and puree thoroughly.  If too thick, add small amounts of steaming liquid until you like the consistency.
  4. Reheat to almost boiling and serve garnished with cilantro and a lime wedge.

My pictures show the soup garnished with peanuts, which make a lovely addition, but I didn’t think the flavor added that much.  The crunch, however, was a nice addition.  Also on the plate are some scallion (and kale, sshhhh, don’t tell Luis) pancakes, based on a recipe from Eating Well (unfortunately, they seem to have lost the recipe online…I may post it later).  Enjoy.

squash soup from long angle

Yes We Can

November 5th, 2008

The first step on the newest turn in our journey. Wishing hope to us all.

Summer for Breakfast

July 27th, 2008

There are a lot of things I love about summer, the long days, the warm evenings, the blush of outdoor fun on everyone’s skin. One of the things I love most about summer is the fruit. Succulent, juicy, colorful fruit. I’m not willing to pick a single favorite, but high up there are peaches and blueberries. Such a wonderful combination no matter how you combine them – salad, cobbler, under cream, over ice cream. Mm-mm-mmm. This morning I decided on blueberry scones with sliced peaches on top.

blueberry scones with peaches

These scones are based on my mother’s recipe, always tasty and remarkably low in sugar. Easy to make with a food processor. They never last long.

Whole Wheat Blueberry Scones6 servings

Ingredients

  • 2 c. whole wheat flour (or pastry flour)
  • 1/2 c. white flour
  • 1 c. rolled oats
  • ¼ c. sugar
  • 1 tsp. baking powder
  • ½ tsp. baking soda
  • ½ tsp. salt
  • ½ c. butter
  • ½ tsp. nutmeg
  • ¼ tsp. allspice
  • ¾ c. blueberries
  • 1 T. lemon zest
  • 1 tsp. lemon juice
  • 1 tsp. vanilla extract
  • 1 c. buttermilk

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 400F. Butter a baking sheet.
  2. Add all the dry ingredients (flours, oats, salt, sugar, soda, powder, spices) and the butter (cut up into chunks) to your food processor. Blend briefly until the butter is blended to form a course meal. If working by hand, with forks, knives of pastry blender, this may take 5 -10 minutes. When blended, remove to a large bowl and toss in the blueberries.
  3. Combine the wet ingredients, then add them to the dries. Stir gently until just incorporated. At this point you get to choose the shape of your scones. Quick and easy is forming the dough into two 1/2″ thick disks and gently cutting with a knife into six sections each. Slightly more time consuming and definitely messier is cutting your dough into twelve portions and forming each portion into a cylinder – that’s what I did this morning.
  4. Bake your scones for 18-23 minutes depending on the temperature of the ingredients and the shape of the scones you choose. Let cool for 5 minutes (if you can wait that long) and serve with fruit or preserves, butter or whipped cream of your favorite combination.

Yes

July 4th, 2008

City Bees

June 29th, 2008

NYC rooftop honey bee hive

This morning I had the privilege of meeting some of New York’s smaller and rarer denizens. David Graves, owner of Berkshire Berries and one of Greenmarket’s Producers, keeps hives on some carefully selected (and assiduously permission granted) roofs in New York City. From these hives he has been gathering and selling New York City honey for eleven years.

David was kind enough to take some lucky Greenmarket staff to visit one of his hives. This meant an early morning start for me, but I can’t complain as most of our market managers have to get up well before my 5:30 wake up hour this morning. We walked up more floors than I generally care to and stepped out into brilliant sun with a few bees.

The bees increased drastically in number as David opened the hive and pulled out a comb, but they mostly ignored us, aside from the stray bee or five which kept thunking into my hair. (I am glad to have enough hair that my scalp is sheltered from a bee running into it.) The first hive Davide opened is nearly ready to be harvested with nearly fully combs. David let us sample some of the honey – it was incredibly clear, with very little color a complex flavor that I am at a loss to describe. Not as overwhelmingly sweet as some honeys can be. When asked about air pollutants, David responded that the nectar in flowers is so deep down into the flower that it is mostly protected from stray dust etc., and that if a bee gets into anything nasty, it will probably die before it makes it back to the hive.

David told us that honey bees are rare in the city, but that when introduced, they keep down the populations of wasps and yellow jackets. Amusingly, David passed on that these city bees seem to have picked up city habits, they work from early morning through until 8pm, unlike his country bees up in Massachusetts, who, he says, kick off right at 5pm.

After examining the first hive we went to a different part of this roof to take a look at a second – it needed to be “re-queened”. The old queen had either died or flown away and the colony needed a new queen to keep it going. David showed us the queen bee he had ordered in the mail (yes, you can ship lives bees through USPS – they have bright green stickers that say “Live Queen Bees” on them – and come in a little wood box with screen mesh on one side to all good air flow).

Partially filled honey comb

He opened up the top of the second hive, pulled out another comb and showed us where some of the worker bees had started trying to make a new queen. This hive definitley needed the new queen. After sliding the new queen, still in box (where she’ll stay until the bees eat the “candy plug” which keeps her in), into the hive, he set up a quart jar of home brewed nectar to fee the hive, making sure that the queen would see food coming into the hive and begin laying eggs to keep the hive’s population going (David said these worker bees only live for 35 days, so for a hive to survive the queen needs to keep pumping out new ones). David’s home brew for the bees is a mix of honey, sugar water and mint – sounds like a lovely beverage to me!

You can check out my gallery for a full set of photos from our visit. You’ll notice a lack of any protective gear – David described the bees as “very gentle”. I guess humans just aren’t too interesting when there are flowers to find.

Early Summer Soup

June 19th, 2008

It may not be early summer where you are, but here in New York, our seasons mostly align with the solar cycle. The Vernal Equinox heralded a string of warm, grey, drizzeling days during which the trees quickly sent out buds, the blossoms and soon leaves. With the Summer Solstice upon us we have already had a heat wave, the first cherries are in the farmer’s market and CSA’s have begun their deliveries.

This afternoon I attempted to leave work early and took a quick ride (less than 45 miutes to cover the 8 miles up Manhattan) up the bike path along the Hudson river to the church just two blocks from my apartment where the CSA I subscribe to has its Upper West Side pick-up location.

This week we had zucchini, yellow squash, mixed lettuce, garlic scapes, parsley, braising greens, turnips and broccoli! With paniers full of produce I headed home, trying to decide how to eat my way through it. I stil have some things left from last week, and eating your way through a CSA pick-up on your own can be bit daunting. I look forward to having Luis back to help me munch through all the beautiful vegetables.

Riding two minutes home (mostly spent at stop lights), my mind alighted on cream of broccoli soup. Something I never made for myself. The web offered a variety of options and as I organized and put away, and oggled the garlic scapes, I was reminded of a spread that one of my co-workers brought in to our staff-meeting potluck yesterday – onion, garlic scape and peas! Instead of cream of broccoli, creamless broccoli and pea soup sounded much more appealing. Light, summery, tasting fresh and bright.

Again with a few web suggestions, It worked out almost as well as I had hoped. Here is the recipe I will use the next time I make this soup.

Early Summer Broccoli & Pea Soup – 4 servings

  • olive oil
  • 3 garlic scapes, finely chopped
  • 1 small onion, diced
  • 2 c. chopped broccoli stems and some florets
  • 2 c. of your favorite broth
  • 1 heaping Tbs oats
  • 1/2 c. peas (preferrably just shelled)
  • 1 tsp lemon rind, finely chopped
  • 1 – 1 1/2 c. broccoli florets, cut very small
  • 1 – 2 Tbs lemon juice
  • parsley and lemon zest for garnish

Instructions:

1. Heat a large sauce pan, add the oil and then the garlic scapes and onions. Allow to cook slowly over low heat with the lid on while you chop broccoli.

2. When the garlic and onion are soft but not brown, add the broccoli, broth and oats. Turn up the heat slightly and let simmer uncovered until the broccoli start to look bright green. Add the peas and simmer another 3-5 minutes.

3. Add the lemon rind/zest and remove from heat. Puree thoroughly, taste for salt, add more water if needed.

4. Return to very low heat and add broccoli florets. Let heat until the florets appear bright green and are to your crunch preference. Mix in the lemon juice, remove from the heat and serve garnished with chopped parsley and additional lemon rind/zest.

I garnished my soup with avocado, feta, lemon rind and parsley. I admit, that was a bit of an overkill, and the feta added a touch too much salt for the delicate soup. It was still very tasty and I look forward to trying it a second time to see if I can get it right instead of almost right.

Here’s to summer, enjoy the longest day and the beautiful fruit of summer’s early harvest.

A dinner worth celebrating

March 23rd, 2008

On Friday night, Luis took me out for my birthday to Blue Hill at Stone Barns. While we have had many wonderful, great, fantastic meals in NYC, most of them I don’t blog about, because that’s what Bruni is for. But this dinner was special. Very special. Blue Hill is a restaurant in Greenwich Village (and also family farm of the chef Dan Barber). Stone Barns is a non-profit sustainable farm with an educational mission. Blue Hill at Stone Barns is pretty much what you’d guess, a fantastic restaurant located on an amazing farm.

I’ve known about Blue Hill’s country version for a while now, have heard great things about it, have even had the privilege of a guided tour of Stone Barns farm (we greatly enjoyed this particular benefit of working in NYC’s food community – thank you Gabrielle and Craig). I have not however made it to the NYC version or even considered indulging in a trip out to Stone Barns. Luis’s revelation a few weeks ago that he had planned this dinner for my birthday left plenty of time for anticipation. Despite all my colleagues at work asking if I was excited, saying how excited they were for me, I could not have imagined the amazing dinner that we had. So, with no further adieu, an homage to my stunning 30th birthday dinner.

We were seated side by side on a long cushioned bench at the edge of the dinning hall – so we could watch the action while whispering sweet nothings to each other. We opened with glasses of sparkling wine from Long Island, tasty and very bubbly, and were told that the chef was excited to have us and would love to put together a tasting menu for us. We didn’t even look at a menu. Then began the procession of food.

Amuse Bouches:

  • Carrots and bok choy on a fence with apple-celery slushy shooters
  • Beet-burger sliders (the size of a quarter)
  • Stone Barns raised pork charcuterie with breaded salsify on a stick
  • Toast with Blue Hill Farm butter and ricotta plus dehydrated carrot and arugula salts
  • Stone Barns egg with baby collard greens and beluga lentils

Plates:

  • Wrapped carrot with carrot puree/foam and fantastic butter sauce
  • Poached hake in a puddle of shellfish soup
  • Winter root and fruit salad
  • Lamb belly with carrots

Dessert:

  • Palate cleanser – bay leaf sorbet over diced pineapple
  • Banana fritters with Stone Barns honey and peanut butter ice cream with pork cracklings

So, that’s the list. No description of mine can capture the freshness of the first carrot, the melting tenderness of the hake, the incredible richness of the lamb belly, the inspiration of peanut butter ice cream with pork cracklings, so I won’t waste space waxing rhapsodic about every item (since practically every item deserves it). I think what really caught me, aside from the incredible quality of the food, was that this was a truly American meal. No hint of ginger, no trace of curry was to be found anywhere. This tasted like the northeast, like the Hudson Valley, like Cape Cod, like the the pastures and woodlands just outside the window where the lamb and pork came from. This meal was not just beautiful and flavorful, it had a sense of place.

Of course, this particularly extravagant food experience was also ridiculously expensive – prohibitively expensive for most – and I feel quite lucky to have been able to share this special dinner with my best friend and partner. This was definitely a celebration dinner – the kind of experience you look forward to and talk about afterwards, a gift on its own. A celebration dinner worth celebrating.